Many people think that Pho is the most famous dish in Vietnam and everyone eats Pho. But Vietnamese people eat many different dishes for breakfast, including eel vermicelli. The best eel vermicelli is said to originate from Nghe An. With its rich and sweet flavor, eel has gradually become familiar in many northern provinces and is a simple, favorite dish in Hanoi today.

Crispy eel vermicelli. Photo: Michelin Guide

Live eels are caught in the fields, washed, marinated with salt to remove mucus and fishy smell, then cleaned, and divided into small pieces. Each piece of eel is coated with a layer of seasoning powder and deep-fried until golden brown, resulting in a product called crispy eel.

The broth is slowly simmered with pork bones, eel bones and a mixture of spices, creating layers of rich flavor.

The vermicelli is blanched in the broth, put in a bowl, and topped with crispy eel pieces. A little bit of herbs, hot broth, pepper and chili are added to the bowl of noodles to create the final product of crispy eel noodles.

Eel noodles are unique because of their variety and rich flavor, said chef Quang Dung from Chapter Hanoi, a restaurant in the Michelin Guide 2024. He is a long-time fan of the dish, eating it almost every week.

"Eel noodles are very attractive. This is a versatile dish because it can be served in many ways, in broth, mixed or stir-fried. The most traditional version is noodles in water, served with slow-simmered broth, combined with bean sprouts, shiitake mushrooms, wood ear mushrooms and a bit of Vietnamese coriander," Mr. Dung described.

The appeal of a bowl of eel noodles also lies in the textures and contrasts - the crunchiness of the fried eel, the softness of the noodles, the slight sweetness of the bean sprouts, and the fresh aroma of the herbs.

The mixed noodles version is attractive in a different way. The noodles are blanched just right, still retaining their chewy and slightly crunchy texture. The vermicelli is served with smaller pieces of crispy eel, accompanied by a bowl of sweet and sour sauce. It is served with cucumber, bean sprouts, perilla, basil, mint, roasted peanuts and fried onions.

And finally, stir-fried vermicelli is the choice for those who love the fragrant taste of pan-fried dishes. Rich, fragrant, stimulating all the senses of diners.

According to Mr. Dung, the rich flavor of eel vermicelli is achieved thanks to the meticulous marinating and processing process. The dish is very light on the stomach because eel is an easily digestible protein, and the vermicelli has little starch, making it an ideal choice for breakfast or lunch that does not require much protein.

"On winter days in Hanoi, a hot bowl of eel vermicelli is an extremely suitable choice," said Mr. Dung.

Eel dishes at Dong Thinh Eel Vermicelli. Photo: Giang Huy

Quach Kim Dung, owner of Dong Thinh eel vermicelli restaurant, a restaurant on the list of delicious, affordable (Bib Gourmand) 2024 and currently the only eel restaurant in Hanoi in the Michelin Guide, said the secret to a delicious bowl of eel vermicelli lies in the way the eel is prepared and the clear broth.

"We get eels from Nghe An and Bac Ninh. The eels must be of moderate size, with smooth skin and a round body, not too big or too small. After being brought home, the eels are cleaned and fried until golden brown and fragrant. A piece of crispy eel when bitten gives off a rich, crunchy flavor but is not dry at all," said Ms. Dung.

The broth is slowly simmered from pork bones and eel bones, creating a clear, naturally sweet and nutritious soup, which is the soul of the dish.

In addition to the classic crispy eel version, diners at Dong Thinh Eel Noodles can also enjoy fresh (soft) eel, cooked to retain the sweetness and rich flavor of the broth. The eel meat is soft and easy to eat, a perfect choice for those who love sophisticated and traditional flavors.

Another highlight of the restaurant is eel eggs, usually only available from February to July during the eel's natural breeding season. At this time, female eels have golden, nutritious eggs, and the eel meat is especially fatty and fragrant.

"Many diners return to the restaurant many times during this time just to enjoy this seasonal dish," said Ms. Dung.

Tam Anh (According to Michelin Guide)