After 1975, tens of thousands of Vietnamese people migrated to Hong Kong. According to estimates by the US Migration Policy Institute, by 2024, about 12,000 Vietnamese people will be living here, creating a small but influential community.

According to many chefs, compared to Thai food, which is more popular in Hong Kong, Vietnamese food still has difficulty establishing its high-end culinary image. "Not many Vietnamese restaurants in Hong Kong focus on authenticity and quality, but the picture is changing," said Raymond Wong, founder of Bep Vietnamese Kitchen in Central.

Southern-style beef noodle soup at Bep Vietnamese Kitchen. Photo: Bep Vietnamese Kitchen

Mr. Wong, a Chinese-born Vietnamese, started his Vietnamese restaurant in Hong Kong in 2003. With a love for his homeland’s cuisine, he maintains a direct import of ingredients from Vietnam, from fish sauce, herbs, chillies to rice paper. The restaurant’s beef pho broth is simmered with beef bones and two types of brisket to create depth, while the broken rice dishes use beef jerky with black pepper sauce and grilled ribs.

Mr. Kenny Tse, co-founder of Pho Viet Authentic Hanoi Cuisine in Mong Kok, said he was drawn to the sophistication of Vietnamese cuisine after many years working in Southeast Asian restaurants in Hong Kong.

"Before opening the restaurant, my partner Julie and I traveled to many places in Vietnam to explore regional cuisines, and it was the lack of authentic Vietnamese dishes in Hong Kong that inspired us to open the restaurant," said Kenny Tse.

Tse and Julie often return to Hanoi, Julie's hometown, every three months to find inspiration for new dishes and buy ingredients. About 70% of the ingredients are imported from Northern Vietnam. In addition to bun cha, a dish that appeared on Anthony Bourdain's "Parts Unknown" and former US President Obama's show, the restaurant also serves typical Vietnamese dishes such as bun rieu, banh mi and bun thit nuong.

In Sheung Wan, An Choi restaurant, founded by husband and wife Kay Mai and Lewis Dai in 2023, also pursues a traditional cooking style. During the Covid-19 lockdown, the couple began developing a Vietnamese menu right in their family kitchen.

"Hong Kong people often think Vietnamese food is cheap, but in fact, delicious food requires a lot of time and effort," Mai said.

Fresh bread served daily at An Choi restaurant. Photo: An Choi

The bread at An Choi is completely handmade twice a day. The pho broth, liver pate, egg sauce, pickles and dipping sauces are all homemade to ensure the taste is "clear, light, balanced and a little spicy", approaching traditional Vietnamese flavors.

Also attached to bread, Kiki Phung, a Vietnamese content creator living in Hong Kong, opened Banh Mi Nem in Wan Chai in 2024, inspired by her mother's family recipe.

"I'm very picky when it comes to food because my mother used to be a chef, my bread is Southern style, rich in flavor and has many layers of flavor," Kiki Phung said. Although it is just a small takeaway shop, Banh Mi Nem has opened a second branch in Central thanks to its strong reception.

For diners looking for a more upscale experience, Sep Hong Kong restaurant in Central, opening in 2022, is the destination for Indochine-style Vietnamese cuisine. Chef DoBee Lam, who lived in Vietnam for seven years and is married to a Vietnamese woman, said he combines wood-fired grilling techniques with imported ingredients to create depth of flavor.

One of the restaurant's signature dishes is smoked cod with fish sauce imported from Phu Quoc Island.

Smoked cod with fish sauce imported from Phu Quoc. Photo: Instagram/sephongkong

"I don't change too much, but keep the Vietnamese spirit intact, combining it with international ingredients to elevate the dish," said Lam.

From rustic street food to high-end versions, Vietnamese cuisine in Hong Kong is on the rise, led by dedicated overseas Vietnamese who consider food not only a matter of taste, but also of identity.

Mai Phuong (According to SCMP)